SG50 Changi Walk: Darkest Period of Singapore

Today, I went for a walk at Changi as part of a SG50 Walk: Darkest Period of Singapore. 

Route (8 km): Changi Beach – along Changi Air Base – along Selarang Camp – Johore Battery – Changi Museum - Lunch (optional)

The objective of the walk was to learn more about the Japanese Occupation period in Singapore, these were some of the questions to be explored:
1. Why Singapore was name as ‘Undefeatable Fortress’?
2. Have you heard of ‘Tiger of Malaya’?
3. What was Dal Force, Force 136, Sook Ching, Kempeitai?
4. Singapore got heroes?

Changi Beach Park

Plaque

Changi Beach was one of the massacre sites during Operation Sook Ching (肃清), where the Japanese exterminated Chinese in Singapore whom they perceived to be involved in anti-Japanese activities. You can read more about Sook Ching from many other sources. Standing at the massacre sites, we imagine

"On 20 February 1942, 66 Chinese males were lined up along the edge of the sea and shot by the military police. The beach was the first of the killing sites of the Sook Ching" [from Wiki]. 

You can find a small plaque at the massacre site, it's up to your imagination to smell the sea and recreate the scene in your head.

The victims were shot and bayonetted to ensure that there were no survivors. Only until the 60s were the remains of the victims gathered and cremated, the ashes buried under the Civilian War Memorial at Beach Road. Every year on 15 Feburary, there is a small ritual at the memorial to pay respects to the war victims.

"On this and many other beaches around Singapore many civilians and POWs were sacrificed. This once blood soiled beach is today filled with laughter and peace. We pray that those who were sacrificed found their peace too" - quote from a Chapel at Changi Museum

As we walked along Changi Air Base, we learnt that many of the military camps were converted to POW camps during World War 2, the Air Base was one of them. Inside, there were 5 murals painted by a British POW, Stanley Warren. They are still standing inside the camp, but the Air Base is not open to the public for viewing. The replicas of the painting, however, are available in the Changi Museum.

The replicas of the paintings were supervised by Stanley Warren himself, but he had also drawn a small part himself on this picture. The painting was painted on high walls, the lower part of the painting was more accessible to the old Warren to leave his "signature".

The Last Supper by Stanley Warren [Image from FEPOW Memorial Church website]

Johore Battery was where we saw the "Monster Gun" by the British. It was said that each shell of the Monster Gun could take down one battleship. The British believed that with the North shielded by Malaya and with the south protected by the invincible Monster Guns, Singapore was an undefeatable "impregnable fortress".

Monster Gun (Replica)

The war ammunition were stored underground beside the Monster Gun. As the underground area was inaccessible, the floorplan was traced above to show the public.  You can also try to lift the 800 kg shell at different lever levels. It was quite heavy even at the furthest (most leverage) point!

Floorplan of the underground passageway at Johore Battery

800 kg shell!!

The British with the Monster Gun

Sword Cross

We then proceeded to the Changi Museum. Photography was not allowed in the museum, but you can take a virtual tour here.

We can take a picture of the chapel below. It is a replica, but the cross, made by an Austrialian POW using broken swords, was original. At the chapel, you can see the cross, several paper cranes (it was believed that if you fold 1000 cranes, your wish will come true), a box of sand from Changi Beach, and several remembrance messages.

Chapel of the POW (Replica)

In the museum, we see how people lived through during the Japanese Occupation. You can imagine their struggle for survival, the humiliation and sufferings they go through during the war. It was very heart-wrenching.

It was a very educational trip. I learnt more about Singapore history, not from history textbooks but by going to the sites and recreate the scenes in my head. I used to dread history in secondary school, simply because I did not like the teacher and my grades weren't good. How naive was I. It was later in life when I understand the importance of knowing history, especially at the country we grew up in.

It also teaches us to appreciate peace time and be grateful for the comfort we have. Young people like me who were born post-war do not have the chance to undergo such hardships, and we have the excess energy to get upset over petty issues. Time to put things into perspective and start counting our blessing.

The tour was conducted by a very knowledgable tour guide Anna Ong. She is a local freelance tour guide who is very energetic with great personality. I would recommend her to a tourist who would intends to explore Singapore!